The High Atlas Tour
4 days / 110 km 8000 m of elevation gain
At the end of 2023, on the local bus that took us from Marrakech to Ouarzazate, we crossed for the first time the arid and wild beauty of the Atlas Mountains. We caught glimpses of untamed ridge lines, bordered by the immensity of the surrounding deserts, suggesting a unique and timeless adventure.
But one question remained: how to cross such a wild and isolated mountain range, far from home and our bearings, without any knowledge of the terrain? The idea matured until we crossed paths with Cyrille Sismondi, the organizer of the Atlas Quest, a hyper-demanding ultra in the heart of the High Atlas.
This enthusiast, who has lived in Morocco for over 10 years, has explored Toubkal from top to bottom, and it is based on his experience that this adventure came to life. Cyrille insists: there is no question of us going into the high Atlas in total autonomy, and this for 2 reasons.
The first reason is that we are merely guests passing through this region. Participating in the local economy is not an option.
The second reason is that the area remains extremely wild and remote. Don't count on a helicopter rescue. We will therefore be accompanied by Brahim, a four-time finisher of the UTAT and the Marathon des Sables. He is one of the only Berber guides capable of running with us over this distance. He is our lifeline in case of any trouble. The project we envision is as follows: four days of semi-self-supported trekking deep in the Atlas Mountains, to explore areas inaccessible and untouched by modern civilization.
To resupply ourselves in these remote areas, we will rely on the logistical support of muleteers. This is an essential logistical network for the region's inhabitants, given the steep mountain passes and the scarcity of passable roads.
Finally, note that most of the adventure takes place above 2500m altitude, with the highest point being Mount Toubkal, at 4167m altitude, the highest peak in North Africa.
Day 0: Arrival in Oukaïmeden
After collecting our luggage in Marrakech, we set off for Oukaïmeden with Hicham, the "Logistics" man from Atlas Quest.
We are sleeping in the very picturesque French Alpine Club of Oukaïmeden nestled at an altitude of 2500m.
Brahim, our Berber guide, joined us in the evening to discuss logistics. He's one of the few locals who has completed the UTAT (Ultra Trail Atlas Toubkal, 105km and 8000m of elevation gain) and the Marathon des Sables several times. He will be with us throughout the entire journey.
Departure the next day at 7:30 am for the first stage, we are really looking forward to discovering the Atlas Mountains!
For our first night at altitude, our sleep was punctuated by howling dogs and the shortness of breath caused by the altitude. It wasn't the best night of the trip, but Rachid from the CAF assured us that while the first night is always difficult, the second and third nights would be like being at home, which proved to be true later on.
Tip: Remember to bring earplugs and a sleep mask as there are no curtains in the rooms.
Day 1: Oukaïmeden - Timichi gîte of Brahim Oussalm
24km - 1345m elevation gain, 1950m elevation loss
This first stage gets us into the swing of things, we start with a beautiful climb up the Tizi n'ou addi pass at 2950 m, followed by a descent to the village of Tacheddirt, where we stopped at a guesthouse to drink the famous Moroccan mint tea which provides an essential carbohydrate boost!
Clinging to the mountainside, the large terrace of the cottage places us in the middle of a magnificent mountain arc. The calm and energy that reign there are very pleasant.
But we mustn't linger; the sun is already high in the sky, beating down on us with formidable UV rays. We pull the FLOW SHIRT collar up around our necks and open all the vents before beginning the ascent towards the Tizi n Tacchedirt pass at 3230 m.
On the road, we meet a shepherd and his immense flock of goats and sheep, freshly out of their sheepfold and, like us, setting off to conquer the surrounding peaks.
Still unaccustomed to the altitude, the ascent to the 3200-meter pass is the first challenge of the day. The very technical descent allows us to rediscover the first signs of civilization and leads us towards Labassene and Timichchi. The villages we pass through still bear the scars of the 2023 earthquake, which, however, hasn't dampened the spirits of its inhabitants, who are welcoming and curious as we pass by.
Our long descent finally brings us to the Timichchi Valley, where the guesthouse "Chez Brahim Oussalm" welcomes us for the night in its lush, verdant oasis. Hamed, his son, treats us to a delicious and unmissable chicken tagine.
It's clear: with nearly 900 people registered since opening in 2019, the address is definitely very exclusive, and each group of visitors is an event that arouses attention and curiosity.
While exploring the surrounding area, I had a surprising encounter with a white man, carrying a small 20L bag on his back, who was coming down the mountain at a brisk pace. I called out to him: what could a tourist be doing here alone?
He answers me in Berber, mistaking me for a local. I'm bewildered. After a brief exchange in English that reveals his accent, we agree that we're both French. He's just returned from the Tizi n Tacchedirt pass where he spent the night… alone, like a shepherd. A Breton salt worker for four months of the year, he lives in a Berber village the rest of the time. But there's no time to linger any longer; my companion is in a hurry: he has two hours to reach his adopted village further down, where he's expected for a wedding. The man they call the French Berber here sets off again, leaving me with the image of a Cavalo Blanco straight out of Born to Run.
Just because we're in the middle of nowhere doesn't mean life has stopped. The muezzin's call to prayer announces nightfall, and the conversations of small groups of villagers who regularly pass by the inn brighten the evening. In this wooded hamlet, the night is mild and lively. You feel like joining in the village life.
Day 2: Bivouac Timichichi - Boukchoud
26km, 1900m of elevation gain, 1135m of elevation loss
After a good breakfast of omelet, Laughing Cow cheese and local bread, it's time to leave Timichchi.
We pass through Tiourdou and turn onto a small, drivable dirt track. The kilometers fly by, the road is smooth, and we finally arrive at Tizi Tikourkoua, which offers a breathtaking panorama. It's 10:00 AM and the sun hasn't yet risen in the valley carved by the Assif Tikourkoua River into a deep canyon. On the opposite side of the valley, we can just make out the villagers of Tamaterte descending on foot the immense, winding track that leads to the Seti Farma souk, some ten kilometers and 500 meters of descent further on. Here, settled people have a hard life; you're either a nomad or you're nothing.
After a very long, dusty descent, as gentle as it was rolling, we finally reach the Assif Tikourkoua river and begin the climb back up towards Tamaterte.
As we passed by the village, just as the sun finally said hello, the children ran to see the attraction that we were, as curious as we were wild.
Brahim tells us that the schoolchildren have been waiting for their teacher for months. The regional education authority's decision to assign teachers to these rural areas is not proving popular.
We continue our ascent towards the Tizi n tamaterte pass, which offers us a symmetrical view of the valley now scorched by a blazing sun.
We begin the descent where we encounter mules with enormous sacks of walnuts on their backs, led by the villagers of Amenzel. Despite having deserted their village following the earthquake, they return every year to harvest and dry the walnuts, which they will then sell at Seti Farma for 200 dirhams (€20) per sack of 5000 walnuts.
The valley floor, crossed by the peaceful Assif Assaka river, is a small oasis of tranquility where we might be tempted to stop for a swim. But the road is still long, and each passing hour intensifies the heat.
After climbing through a thuya forest towards the village of Amenzel, crossing a small pass finally gives us a panoramic view of the Amenzel valley and its picturesque village. As we wander through this ghost village, we are startled by a noise that seems to be coming from a house. We knock and are welcomed by the last inhabitant of the village, who warmly offers us mint tea, three generous pieces of Agrhoum cheese, Laughing Cow cheese, and olive oil.
Settled on the terrace of what was once an inn—which hosted Dawa Sherpa ten years ago—we savor our tea in the tranquility of a mountain emptied of its inhabitants. Around us, sacks of nuts overflowing with fruit signal an imminent departure. It's the end. Tomorrow, the woman who welcomed us will leave her village for good and settle in the city.
We talked at length with Brahim about this exodus, which fills him with despair. For him, the city is a hell of stress and constraints. He finds freedom and peace here, in his mountains. Cyrille had told us, he's the last lion of the Atlas Mountains.
We climb back up the path along the cliffside that runs alongside the river. With our feet in the water, we walk sometimes through reeds and tall grass, sometimes across endless, arid scree slopes. We soon arrive at Boukchoud, which means "Dead Tree," a reference to the thuya vegetation that covers the mountainside.
We set up camp at the bottom of the valley, at the foot of the cirque, next to the river. A wash (in water) and a quick ice-cold dip are in order before the mules arrive. It's also a chance for a little muscle recovery.
In the evening the muleteers will prepare a delicious couscous for us, pomegranates for dessert and some good verbena to help us sleep at 2800m altitude!
The thermometer is plummeting, the night's chill is biting after the day's sweltering heat. But we're enjoying the spectacle of a magnificent Milky Way. I'd forgotten what it looked like.
Day 3: Boukchoud Bivouac - Azib Tifni
28 km - 2290 m D+ 2070 m D-
We set off early because a long day awaits us! The ascent of the Tizi N'imchichk pass takes us to the edge of the wild Atlas Mountains. Upon reaching the pass, we are greeted by a gentle, ember-colored ray of sunshine and a panoramic view of what lies ahead. In the distance, Mount Toubkal looms, and between it and us, a singletrack trail leads the way through rocky expanses, granite valleys, and arid ridgelines.
We descend into the shadow of a stony valley, going down a 400m gravel dune towards the sheepfolds of Azib Tifnoute which we find 3-4km further on.
Along the way, we pass agricultural terraces where two villagers, accompanied by a mule, are busy harvesting potatoes. We're starting to recognize the patterns: the sheepfold is at the bottom of the valley, near a stream. It's a pleasant spot, surrounded by tall grass. And the harvest sun, backlit by the sunlight, reveals a rich insect life; I can almost hear the crickets chirping.
We enter the valley floor which leads to the difficulty of the day: the ascent of the Tizi Tougroudedene pass at 3518 m.
Axelle sets a steady but sustained pace, and although the slope remains gentle, the lack of oxygen is taking its toll. I swallow a gel to maintain my blood sugar level, then I worry about Brahim, who still hasn't eaten anything since the start, despite our numerous offers of gels, bars, and gummies.
At the summit, it never fails, you have to wait, even for the last Lion of the Atlas… He opens his bag and throws himself on a bag of dates which he devours one handful after another.
The descent takes place on the side of a deep black cliff. We move across alternating layers of gabbro and basalt, all transformed into a soup of pebbles reminiscent of the most mineral sections of the GR20.
We finally come across the Assif Iferouane river, which we will follow. Its bed is sometimes a vast stony plain, sometimes a narrow canyon.
The numerous mules we pass, carrying food and other supplies, suggest that this is a commercial artery of the region. We are once again amazed as we cross a flock of about a hundred goats and sheep, engaged in a cheerful, goaty conversation.
We finally arrive at Azib Likemt, a strategic base for the Atlas Quest, and realize the immense logistical challenge involved in organizing this race.
The last difficulty in the region will be Tizi n Tifourhate, a 500m+ climb at 3,300m. From the top, as we pass the pass, we can already see the bivouac freshly set up in the hollow of the valley, on the terraces of Azib Tifni, an immense sheepfold.
We were welcomed with a good mint tea, and greetings from the shepherd who came to chat.
We are lulled to sleep by the bleating all afternoon!
Last night at 2900m in the bivouac.
Day 4: Azib Tifni Bivouac - Imlil
32km - 2418m elevation gain / 3325m elevation loss
At 6 a.m., we have to get out of our sleeping bags to face the darkness and the 5°C of the early morning.
Today, we have a date with Djebel Toubkal at 4,167m.
I change out of my evening clothes into my half-tights and flowy shirt , which have had time to dry overnight. I grab the nutrition I need for the day. After three days of hiking, my pantry is almost empty; I'd measured everything perfectly. I hate carrying unnecessary weight, especially since over four days of trail running, it quickly adds up to a good kilo.
After a day spent standing in dust and sweat, there's nothing worse than finding your change of clothes soaked with fermented perspiration. I pack my dry bag and evening clothes into dry bags. I complete my bag by adding my sleeping mat and 0°C sleeping bag.
We find Hamed in the large tent where he has prepared two delicious omelets accompanied by the ever-popular Laughing Cow cheese. Tonight we will meet up with our team in Imlil.
The day begins with an ascent to the Tizi n Terhaline pass at 3427m. We descend towards the foothills of Mount Toubkal, which offers us an impressive perspective of what awaits us.
On the descent back towards Lake Ifni, we realize that we haven't reached our goal. Or rather, that there's too much. At this rate, the day will probably be 45km and 4500m of elevation gain.
At the confluence with the Tifnout River, we decided to change our plans for a more direct ascent of Toubkal. Following the river upstream, we reached a majestic and little-known valley. The 2000-meter climb seemed endless at this altitude.
Around 1 p.m., after a few technical sections, we finally reached the summit of North Africa. I wasn't feeling very clear-headed; altitude has always been my Achilles' heel. A break was definitely in order: we pulled out a potato accompanied by the ever-present… Laughing Cow cheese!
At our feet stretches the Atlas mountain range to the edge of the Sahara. We savor the view, but a persistent, icy wind urges us not to linger too long.
The descent back to the Toubkal refuge is as playful as it is perilous. A thin layer of gravel covers large, sloping granite slabs. There's no room for error; the slope is steep all the way to the Mouflon refuge, which adjoins the CAF refuge. Despite the anachronistic and somewhat outdated appearance of the buildings, these two refuges are quite impressive.
A friend of Brahim's runs the Mouflon. We stop for a Coke and watch the hordes of tourists pass by, cans of Pringles in hand. Globalization has caught up with us.
The descent to Imlil is a very enjoyable and playful 11km singletrack with 1300m of elevation loss. The 2000m of climbing in my legs is forgotten. I put on my headphones and we descend like a river flowing down its course, weaving between tourists and mules.
At the gates of Imlil, we happen to run into our caravan, which we've caught up with and which is already celebrating the end of its journey. The town's renewed vibrancy is amplified by the encouragement of the passersby we encounter. It feels like the end is near.
We pass through the arch of the Auberge Soleil at 4:30 pm and conclude our adventure with some good barbecue and a cup of tea while waiting for the muleteers to arrive.
This crossing of the High Atlas will remain a complete adventure: demanding, human and profoundly authentic.
If you wish to experience this beautiful adventure in the Atlas Mountains, please visit the Atlas Quest website to discover the trail running trips offered.
Thanks to the whole Atlas Quest team for making this adventure possible: Cyrille, Hicham and Brahim.
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Outfit
Day: Flow Shirt LS + Half Tight + Ultra Socks
Night: Heat Layer + Ultra Shirt + Ultra Socks + Supreme Boxer + FKT Pant + Thermal Shell + SigmaShell
Shields
Bandana + Ultra Beanie
Packing Kit
Prototype Bag 555 (24L) / Release May 2026
4 RMX 500mL flasks + 1 carbon filter nozzle
Dry Bags
Sleeping Kit
Pajak 0°C Sleeping Bag
Sea to Summit Ultra Light Air Mattress
Power Kit
1 Stoots front light
1 Nitecore 10,000 mAh Carbon external battery
2 Nitecore Carbon 20,000 mAh external batteries