PART 1: Conquering the Chartreuse: Our Duo Thru-Hiking Adventure
In the world of ultra-running, thru-hiking is an open door to the unknown and to adventure. It's an experience that goes far beyond just running. Freedom and lightness combine to allow us to push our limits and discover new horizons.
For this 3rd thru-hiking adventure, Axelle and I decided to take on a brand new challenge: an XXL Tour of the Chartreuse over 2 days!
Thanks to the insightful recommendations of our friend Joris Tripier Mondacin from Trail In France, we planned a 80km and 6000m D+ route allowing us to explore the hidden treasures of this magnificent region.
In this article, we will share with you the highlights, challenges, and preparation of this incredible trail running adventure.
Thru-hiking, or trail running, the "starter-main-dessert" version!
There's something magical about embarking on a multi-day adventure. Exploring an unknown region, on a route that is both technical and ambitious, awakens in us the feeling of being explorers of a new kind!
By breaking up the itinerary with a night or two in a hostel/refuge/hotel, thru-hiking also allows you to significantly increase the distances covered while maintaining a certain level of running comfort.
It immerses us in the adventure, extends the pleasure, and lets us see more!
And the strong contrasts between the day's effort and the comfort of the hostel undeniably contribute to the magic of this practice.
The 2-day Tour of the Chartreuse
The route we chose is an interesting alternative to the "classic" crossing of the Chartreuse starting from Chambéry.
It transported us to the heart of wild and preserved nature. From the start at Grenoble train station to majestic peaks, passing through breathtaking landscapes, follow our journey through the most emblematic points of interest in the region...
Day 1: Through the Dents de Crolles
The day before our thru-hike, the excitement was palpable. Between the eagerness to pack our bags, check the route, and finalize the last logistical details, we had chosen to spend the night in Grenoble to start our adventure calmly. After a hearty breakfast, we headed to Grenoble train station, the starting point of our journey.
The initial climb led us to the Fort de la Bastille, overlooking the city. Through the ruins and tourists, we had to climb 200 meters of elevation gain to finally pass the funicular's arrival point and "exit" Grenoble. The Fort de Saint Eynard, like a rearguard of the Bastille, also marked our path. Below, we passed by the Col de Vence, the last water point before the long 1800m D+ ascent leading to the summit of the Dents de Crolles.
At Col du Coq, we missed the excellent Brevardière inn that netizens recommended to us afterwards. It must be said that this part between Col de Vence and Col du Coq is clearly not the most interesting of the route: through the undergrowth and consisting of an endless succession of small climbs (for nearly 13km), we greeted the sight of the Dents de Crolles at Col du Coq with great enthusiasm!
A rocky and airy ascent, with some chain sections, this was undeniably the most magnificent part of this first day!
After the Dents de Crolles, we found ourselves in a wild and preserved environment, reminding us of the Parmelan landscape with its topography and immense stone slabs crisscrossed with crevices.
After a good 6 hours of hiking, a storm gradually joined the party, forcing us to contend with showers and the distant rumble of thunder until our arrival in Saint Pierre de Chartreuse, marking the end of this first day.
We had planned to stay at Les Ateliers du Cucheron, located 3km further along the route. Our hosts kindly offered to pick us up directly in Saint Pierre de Chartreuse, thus saving us these last three kilometers, a rather uninteresting road section.
This long day on the trails was thus punctuated by diverse and varied landscapes as well as capricious weather. But far from discouraging us, and safely dry under our BlackShell, this weather brought us its share of strange and magical atmospheres that add spice to the adventure. We savored every bit of it.
Night in a guest house: Les Ateliers du Cucheron
Located on the route, right at the start of the ascent to Grand Som, the hosts kindly agreed to pick us up in Saint Pierre de Chartreuse (which saved us 3km of road, a not particularly interesting section, especially after 40km in the legs!).
There, we shared an excellent meal with other guests (a couple, one of whom is a Youtuber cabinetmaker) and discussed the world 3 times over.
In these exchanges around a meal, we rediscover the pleasures of travel and the openness to the world it brings. This is a small golden lining of these thru-hiking adventures that makes us appreciate this format so much.
Day 2: Grand Som, La Grande Chartreuse, and Charmant Som.
After a short but invigorating night at Les Ateliers du Cucheron, we were ready for a new day of discoveries and adventures. The second day promised to immerse us in the heart of magnificent landscapes and places steeped in history.
Our first stop was the Grand Som, an imposing peak offering breathtaking panoramic views, with an unobstructed view of the Grande Chartreuse monastery below. The ascent is just as spectacular as the Dents de Crolles, with a few airy sections here and there. In any case, it is a natural spectacle not to be missed!
After admiring this marvel of nature, we continued our journey by taking the Pas du Loup, a narrow passage between the cliffs.
Our next destination was steeped in spirituality: the Grande Chartreuse Monastery. Nestled in a green setting, this ancient monastery is a place of contemplation for some thirty monks. With a sober and austere architecture, the Carthusian monks who reside there have taken a vow of silence and produce the famous eponymous liqueur according to a secret recipe. A true journey through time and spirit.
Right next to the monastery is the Grande Chartreuse Museum. For the curious and connoisseurs, this museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the history and making of the famous liqueur (we did not stop).
We then began an ascent towards Charmant Som, a peak that certainly lives up to its name, but which did not spare us with its long, particularly muddy and slippery climb through the undergrowth. At the summit, we were rewarded with a breathtaking view of the surrounding massifs, including Cham Chaude (the only peak we could not reach).
Too optimistic or too greedy (we'll never know), our provisions had run dry, and a short stop was necessary at the Charmant Som inn, where we savored their famous blueberry pie and each left with half a cheese board that allowed us to last for the remaining 3 hours.
The final climb to the Refuge des Banettes offered us an enchanting bucolic spectacle. The alpine landscapes unfolded before us in all their splendor, with green meadows, refreshing waterfalls, legions of marmots, and majestic peaks.
The final descent, offering a breathtaking view of Grenoble, awaited us with its 1500 meters of steep elevation loss. A final test that battered my quads after 70km of running, but rewarded by the satisfaction of having completed this adventure!
Upon arriving in Saint Egrève, a tram allowed us to reach Grenoble train station in about twenty minutes. Calm after the storm, we were back among people in our adventurer's uniform. And amidst the passersby, civilians, busy workers, or onlookers, we knew that no one around us could imagine the fabulous little adventure we had just accomplished.
I believe we were proud of it...
PART 2: The Art of Packing Your Bag for a 2-day Thru-Hike with an Overnight Stay in a Hostel
All the pleasure of thru-hiking lies in having a bag light enough to maintain the sensations of trail running, yet having all the necessary equipment for several days of running. In this sense, good bag packing is an important prerequisite for the adventure.
To succeed in this thru-hike, our Sherpa bag plays a crucial role. Because with its 12L capacity, its lightness (lighter than the vast majority of 5L bags) and its support (patented system), we can load ourselves for 2-3 days without feeling encumbered by a hiking backpack.
The contents of the bag and our outfit also play a crucial role. Here's how we organized our equipment to have optimal sensations during this thru-hike:
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Running clothes: With 25°C announced on the trails and stormy weather, we chose ultra-light and breathable clothing to overcome the heat. A 220 BPM t-shirt on top accompanied by a Sherpa Race on the bottom. The latter is a valuable complement to the bag as it allows you to store an additional 500mL flask and a total of 1.2L of equipment thanks to its integrated storage belt.
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Evening clothes: Given that we had booked a hostel for the night and given the summer temperatures, we could afford to take fairly light clothes. So for my part, I opted for a Long Sleeve 220 BPM on top and 220 BPM shorts on the bottom (no need for underwear, it has integrated briefs). For a total weight of 132g (XS size) and a volume of 350mL, their lightness and compactness were perfect for our needs.
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Evening equipment: A toothbrush whose handle we cut and which we shared (a small hygiene flexibility we allow ourselves since we are a couple ;p). Since the last thru-hike, I also take an ultra-compact and lightweight 10,000 mAh external charger from the brand Nitecore (150g), the necessary connectivity to charge phone + watch, and a compatible plug. This small external charger is, in my opinion, a must-have on a thru-hike where it's not guaranteed to have a charging option in the evening. But it's also an additional safety measure on the journey, especially when navigating with your phone or watch, or when you need to take many photos (which is my case ^^).
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Safety equipment: We have not neglected essential safety equipment. The essential pillar remains our BlackShell waterproof jacket which, thanks to its 20k Schmerber waterproofness, allows us to effectively protect ourselves against the most hardcore bad weather. Not planning to run at night, we opted for an ultra-light headlamp from the brand Beliight. A survival blanket for emergency situations. The NanoShell completes our bag. Made of water-repellent Merino Everdry, it is the most compact (500mL) and lightest warm jacket available (160g in M). It provides a valuable complement of comfort in the evening without cluttering the bag. But it could also be a valuable source of warmth on the trails if we ever had to spend the night outside.
To see the complete bag packing, we invite you to watch the short video we made in Permanent Story.
Conclusion:
We carefully prepared our equipment for this duo trail running thru-hike in the Chartreuse. Every item we chose was compact, lightweight, and suited to our specific needs. And thanks to our ultra-light and well-organized bag, we were able to fully enjoy every moment of this adventure.
For you too to experience this adventure, here is the GPX track of the route!