Hiking on the GR34 from Lannion to Morlaix.

175 km - 3,500m elevation gain in 4 days

Ah! The Breton flag. Impossible to miss during the various trail races: attached to the hydration pack, discreetly displayed on the socks, printed on the cap, or covering the entire t-shirt... Proof that Brittany is a true land of trail runners and trail running! So for this new adventure, we decided to reverse the roles: it's our turn to show our colors on the sublime coastal paths.

From Lannion to Morlaix, 175 km and 3,500m of elevation gain, 1.6 kilos on my back and 4 days running along the cliffs, with the ocean as far as the eye can see, the rocks sculpted by the wind and the golden light of autumn… Here we go for a great dose of iodine-rich change of scenery in the heart of Brittany.

Day 1: From Lannion to Ploumanac'h - 30 km - 350m elevation gain

 

To begin this trip, it only took us 3.5 hours by train from Paris to reach Lannion station in the mid-afternoon. Easily accessible, it was the perfect place to start this Breton adventure. Lannion is renowned for its historical heritage and half-timbered houses. A stop at the Old Saint-Christophe Bridge and in the cobbled streets of the town center adds a picturesque touch right from the start of the adventure.

As soon as we leave the station, we head due north to immediately pick up the GR34 trail (very well marked) which follows a former railway line. We begin with 14 kilometers in the heart of the Breton countryside, between wooded landscapes and small housing developments. Mostly on a drivable track, this section allows us to gently stretch our legs after several hours on the train. 👌
We rejoin the GR34 at Pont ar Sauz and set off for Perros-Guirec via the Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Officers' Path) and the famous Pink Granite Coast, with its rocks of astonishing shapes and distinctive pink hue. Here, we're immersed in the Breton atmosphere. We pass by the Pointe du Château (Castle Point). We walk along the beaches of Trestraou (one of the most beautiful white sand beaches) and Trestignel, almost deserted at this time of year. We feel privileged, alone facing the ocean on this magnificent stretch of the GR34 overlooking the sea.

 

The Mean Ruz lighthouse in Ploumanac'h marks the culmination of this first leg 🌅. The pink granite rocks are sublimely bathed in the autumnal light! 6:15 pm, a beautiful end to the day as we reach Ploumanac'h. We head to the Hôtel des Rochers, where we receive a very warm welcome, to check into our room, do a little laundry, take a shower, and finally enjoy some fresh oysters in their renowned restaurant 🤤

 

Day 2: Ploumanac'h - Lannion via Île Grande - 42 km, 450m elevation gain

After a good night's sleep, we set off again from Ploumanac'h for a big day of 42 km and 650 D+, one of the most intense of the trip but also one of the most beautiful through wild and hyper-contrasting landscapes.

We first follow the coast, passing through Trégastel and its beaches at low tide. In particular, Coz-Pors, almost entirely to ourselves.

We continued on to Île Grande under a hazy autumn sky, which nonetheless gave the landscape its characteristic remote, end-of-the-world feel. This island is connected to the mainland by a causeway and surrounded by wild coves where the only sounds are the wind and the birds. The island is a true haven of peace in autumn, perfect for contemplation. You can walk around it, which adds another 6 kilometers to the journey.

We continued along the route, still enjoying the unique atmosphere of low tide with boats lying on their sides, before reaching Trébeurden, a village with such Breton charm, boasting magnificent granite houses and blue shutters. At kilometer 30, we found the perfect spot for a truly Breton lunch break: we opted for the crêperie Le Voile, where we savored the traditional Breton galette.

Time for a post-lunch run towards Lannion. We put on our sunglasses and follow the ocean as closely as possible before heading upstream to the Léguer, a coastal river resembling small fjords, which we follow upstream to our evening stop in Lannion for a restorative shower-drinks-dinner-sleep combo! (We had dinner at the crêperie Le Moulin Vert, a place recommended by the Tourist Office. Their specialty: gratinéed crêpes, perfect for recharging your batteries.)

Day 3: Lannion - Locquirec via Trédrez-Locquémeau - 31 km, 500m elevation gain

For this third stage, Julien Le Bihan, a Breton trail running friend, joined us to share a good stretch of the trail together. What better way to discover a region than with a local trail runner sporting the Breton flag on his socks 😅? A huge thank you to him for this wonderful moment shared 🙏

Just like on the first day, we leave Lannion again, but this time heading west. Destination: Locquirec! Before reaching it, we pass by the Pointe du Yaudet, steeped in history with its Celtic remains and the Notre-Dame du Yaudet church, an iconic site not to be missed if you're running in the area. The views are magnificent.

We reach Pointe de Dourven, which offers spectacular panoramic views of the cliffs. We venture into the cliff-lined paths; the coast becomes more rugged, with a series of ascents and descents leading to Trédrez-Locquémeau and its charming little port. It's time for a break on the sunny terrace of Le Petit Michel in Saint-Michel-en-Grève.

We resume our stride under a radiant sun that illuminates the coast and offers us breathtaking views. Following Julien's advice, we enjoy some lovely stretches on the still-damp sand during low tide. Not quite the same as the mud at Veyrier in Annecy, but it sticks to our shoes just as much 😅

We continue towards Locquirec, a peaceful village at this time of year, where a restful night with the ocean as a backdrop awaits us at L'Escale, a charming guesthouse. A tranquil atmosphere prevails, far from the summer bustle, ideal for recharging before the last day. Then it's time for risotto at Chez Kanailles, a must-try for lovers of good Breton cuisine, and off to bed.

Day 4: From Locquirec to Morlaix (42 km, 450 m elevation gain)

The final leg of the journey, with Morlaix on the horizon. The original route was over 50km, but we adapted our itinerary to make sure we didn't miss the return train.

The last day unfolds under a slightly overcast sky. We follow the GR34 for 10 km to Vilin Izella beach. From here, we cut inland to Plougasnou. We rejoin the coastal path south of Pointe de Primel.

A short visit to the Barnenez Cairn, a prehistoric site perched atop a beautiful promontory at the entrance to the Morlaix harbor.

Entering the bay, arriving in Morlaix with its charming little port and half-timbered houses… this part of the journey was unforgettable. A gentle return to civilization. Out of season, the town is calm and peaceful. A stroll through the narrow streets provides a cultural and picturesque way to end the trip.

The journey ended at the train station, ready to catch the train back to Paris. Hearts filled with memories and the promise to return and explore new sections of the GR34.

 

Summary of our adventure: Why hike the GR34 in autumn?

We loved hiking the GR34 in the autumn. The trails were deserted, the year-round accommodations allowed us to find some great places to stay, and the less crowded landscapes had an almost intimate atmosphere. This trip has made us want to explore more of Brittany, and perhaps even hike other sections of this 2000 km GR!



PHYSICAL CONDITIONS:

The course is extremely fast with plenty of changes in pace. However, you still need to be a reasonably fit runner. It's a bit of a challenge for us mountain runners, used to walking briskly up 1000m of elevation gain, not to constantly be pushing hard on alternating 5m climbs and descents. Leave your poles at home; the terrain is flat enough that you won't need them.

WISE EQUIPMENT

  • Sherpa Max Bag
  • 2 flasks of 500 ml
  • Blackshell – rain jacket
  • Sigmashell – Windbreaker
  • Neck circumference – head circumference
  • Dry pouch – Packaging pouch
  • FKT pants – Roaming pants
  • Ultra MC T-shirt
  • 2 Long-sleeved T-shirts
  • Thermal Shell – Warm Roaming Layer

EQUIPMENT NOT SPECIFIC TO WISE

  • Headlamp – with spare battery
  • Sunglasses
  • Mini Toothbrush – Mini Hairbrush
  • Nok Cream - Homeoplasmine
  • Earphone cable and laptop
  • Portable battery
  • food for 4 days

 

Weather and Tides: Prepare for the Elements

The Breton coast requires a good understanding of local specificities, particularly in terms of weather and tides.

Brittany's weather is changeable : rapid alternations between rain, sunshine, and wind are common. Packing weather-appropriate clothing, including waterproof and breathable layers, is essential for staying comfortable throughout your trip.

Tides are another element not to be overlooked . The Breton coast experiences some of the greatest tidal ranges in Europe, meaning that certain sections of the trail can be impassable at high tide, especially near beaches and narrow coastal passages. Before setting off, it's advisable to check tide times on a specialized website (such as SHOM or the Météo France app) to plan for critical sections at low tide. This adds a unique dimension to the adventure, as nature and the landscape transform with the rhythm of the tides!



ACKNOWLEDGMENTS:

 Trail running route, Cécile Lefébvre

Lannion Tourist Office

Perros-Guirec Tourist Office

Locquirec Tourist Office