"It must be great to go around the lake via the peaks!" . All trail runners who have set foot in Annecy have imagined going "around the puddle" via the peaks. This was the case for Guillaume and Hugo, who decided to put their words into action last May: https://www.instagram.com/reel/C7RwJnPNymQ/
A loop that looks simple on paper but is immediately less easy once you hit the trails. 80 km and 5,000D+ is no small feat. You have to prepare for it. Physically, but also mentally. Because conditions can quickly turn a nice stroll into a real ordeal! (Hugo and Guillaume will tell you no different, some trails having become veritable mud fields 😱).
There is an official and marked "GRP Tour du Lac d'Annecy" trail of 95km and 6000D+: https://www.savoie-mont-blanc.com/randonnees-et-balades/tour-du-lac-dannecy-grp-6-jours-196151/ This is a good basis, but it cuts off one of the most beautiful sections of the eastern part and goes very far south into the Bauges massif. It is therefore always interesting to take time with maps to adjust the route to create a route that suits us 🗺️.
And the route that suits Guillaume and Hugo can undoubtedly suit many of you, and we detail it here 📝
Section 1: Annecy - Bluffy
17 km - 1,000D+ - 800D-
For a loop, you need a starting and ending point that makes sense: Annecy train station is therefore perfect. You can start at a slow pace with a bit of sightseeing in Annecy's old town. Follow the canals to the lake. Go around the Jardin de l'Europe, cross the Pâquier, go around the Imperial Casino before reaching Albigny beach and the small port of Annecy le Vieux. End of warm-up. After 4 km and 0 meters of elevation gain, it's time to start climbing. (🚰 Water point in front of the Tennis car park)
First ascent: Mont Veyrier. An iconic Annecy peak whose trails are worn smooth by all the local runners 🏃♀️🏃♂️. So we're not alone in following the climb to Pré Vernet, where the famous and unmissable "testicle tree" 🌲 is located (we don't all have the Eiffel Tower...). And already 500D+ in 2km! (A small note for those seeking Kudos, Remi Bonnet holds the KOM in 15 min 08, so no need to burn yourself out here 😉)
We continue to the Col des Sauts, located 720 meters above the lake. First retina shock with a breathtaking view of the turquoise waters of the lake 🤩. Head towards the summit of Mont Baron (1299 m) then the old cable car platform via the ridge trail, which is very technical in places and offers superb views of the lake and the Bauges. The descent is steep and rocky with a small cabled section. Go easy to reach the Col des Contrebandiers and its small car park. We can finally lengthen our stride on a short asphalt section and thus join the trail that goes around Mont Baret towards the Col de Bluffy. This is a nice descent in the shade and therefore often very wet or muddy. (🚰 Spring to the left of the path at the first houses of the Pénoz hamlet)
Joining the Bluffy town hall (🚰 in front of which there is a fountain), you can see the magnificent Menthon-St-Bernard castle 🏰. A castle that, it is said, inspired Walt Disney to imagine Sleeping Beauty's (and there's a fun fact to drop at dinner).
Section 2: Bluffy - Doussard
23 km - 1,400D+ - 1,550D-
In Bluffy, several options are available for the rest of the journey: either the GRP Tour du lac d'Annecy variant, which takes a very arduous forest track, or the "classic" trail through the undergrowth. We obviously opt for the 3rd solution via the Col des Frêtes. A beautiful climb of 700D+ over less than 3 km that allows us to reach one of the most beautiful viewpoints of the lake from the Ponnay paragliding takeoff point. A good exercise in "small KV" mode with average gradients of 33% over 1.4 km 🥵. We push hard on our poles and legs. But at the top, the reward is beautiful with a sublime spot beneath the impressive cliffs of the southern tip of the Dents de Lanfon 😍
We reach the alpine pastures of Aulp Riant in a beautiful "mountain" atmosphere. We are dominated by the west face of Pointe de Talamarche where many chamois hide 🐐. We continue to Roc Lancrenaz, the second highest point of our journey at an altitude of 1667 meters. From here, we are directly facing the impressive and massive Tournette, the highest peak of Lake Annecy at 2350 meters.
The beginning of the descent from Pas de l'Aulp is very steep and technical with a small cable for securing 10 meters. A small section not very pleasant for people prone to vertigo. We then reach the Col des Nantets (1426) then the Chalet des Crottes (1335) (🚰 Small basin with a spring just before it. Be careful not to take water if a herd is present)
We gently climb towards the Chalet de l'Aulp (🚰 Toilets and open taps in high season) passing through beautiful combes where you can see many Ibex in spring 🐐. So be attentive and curious not to miss them. The Chalet de l'Aulp is an alpine chalet and a restaurant open in summer offering Savoyard classics (don't arrive here hungry 🤤). We continue south on the beautiful playful trail connecting the Rocher du Roux and the Pointe de la Rochette before reaching the famous Col de la Forclaz and its iconic paragliding launch 🪂. (🚰Toilets and taps in the restrooms behind the Adrenaline chalet) (Restaurants and snacks available)
We don't have sails, so the descent to Doussard will be via the superb single trail that leads us to the hamlet of Verthier. 4.5 km of bliss! ⚠️ But be careful not to push too hard on this section because there is still a good way to go!
A small intermission of about 3km of slightly uphill false flat tarmac to reach Lathuile. We have now reached the other end of the lake, in the south. 40 km and 2,400D+ on the watch. Halfway there.
For those planning to do the loop in 2 days, this is the perfect spot for a stopover. For those who, like Guillaume and Hugo, wish to complete the loop in one go, it's time to refill your water bottles in front of the church and tackle the 2nd part, which is broken down as follows: small climb, short descent, medium climb, medium descent, big climb, long descent. Don't look for flat ground, there isn't any.
Section 3: Doussard – Leschaux
18 km - 1,500D+ - 1,050D-
The second half therefore begins with a nice climb in the undergrowth that allows us to reach the Taillefer ridges after about 2km and 400D+.
Cheat moment: For those who are starting to feel tired, follow the signs indicating "Entrevernes" then climb towards the Col de la Cochette. This will save you 3 km and 300D+. There's no small gain when you're exhausted 😉!
For the others, we continue the walk to the charming hamlet of "Les Maisons". From there, we begin the ascent of the Montagne d'Entrevernes. This is a fairly secluded spot around Lake Annecy, but it offers beautiful views of the lake if you remember to look back from time to time. Don't hesitate to make a small round trip to its well-indicated summit. It will take you 1 minute and a bit of scrambling. This is where the slope becomes a descent and we reach the Col de la Cochette (where we find the cheaters 😅).
We descend to St-Eustache (🚰 WC and taps to the right of the town hall and taps behind the town hall to the left of the cemetery) via an alternation of small single tracks, forest paths, less-trodden trails and a final asphalt section. This is a somewhat confusing part where it's important to regularly check the track so as not to go wrong. Well, at worst you'll end up in a hamlet and follow the road. We're not in the desert either.
Section 4: Leschaux - Annecy
21 km - 800D+ - 1,300D-
We continue with probably the most monotonous part of the route (it can't be amazing everywhere) which goes up to the hamlet of La Touvière and Leschaux. This is where our 5th and last climb begins (some would say 6th if you count the small climb from the Crottes chalet to the Aulp chalet at km 27). We push on our legs and poles with what juice we have left. We glimpse the bottom of the Semnoz ski slopes and their ski lifts that lead us to the Crêt de Châtillon, the culminating point of the lake tour at 1702 meters altitude!
Unlike Hugo and Guillaume, make sure you are up there at the right time because the 360-degree panorama is magical 🤩: Semnoz alpine pastures, Mont Blanc, Tournette, Jura, Lake Bourget, Aravis, Chartreuse, Vanoise... Everything is there. (🚰Beware, no water point up there. Only 2 restaurants are open in season but you have to consume to get water)
After enjoying the show, it's time to wreck what's left of your quads by tackling the 14 km and 1,400D- descent that awaits us. A long and gentle descent which, if you've taken good care of your legs during the journey, will give you one last big moment of happiness running on these playful trails.
Several small openings in the woods offer beautiful views of the lake. The lake is getting closer, the end is near. We reach the lake shore at Les Marquisats beach. Team "let's take a dip to celebrate 🏊" or "let's do the last km in a sprint to reach the old town and quickly get a carbohydrate refill of pizzas / soda / ice cream 🍔🍕🍩🍦🧋" or both?
We reach the station. 79 km and 4,700D+ (if you didn't get lost during the outing). The loop is complete. It's now time to put your feet up and rest, telling yourself that "it was still great to go around the lake via the peaks!".
Practical Tips
This loop is described clockwise. It is obviously possible to do it in the other direction, for example by following the Maxi Race track. This is actually what I recommend. It allows you to start "gently" with the climb of the Semnoz, which is long but very gradual. But above all, it allows you to finish in style with the eastern part, which is more beautiful and offers more viewpoints. But this one is also more technical and with fatigue, the pleasure can be diminished. It's up to you to choose.
- Supplies: Possible in the villages of Talloires, Doussard, Leschaux, and Menthon-Saint-Bernard, but some sections require self-sufficiency.
- Weather: Conditions at altitude can be unpredictable. Check the weather before departure and be prepared for significant temperature variations.
- Safety: Demanding course with technical sections, especially descents that can be slippery.
- Required level: Reserved for experienced trail runners. This course requires very good physical condition, mountain experience, and good effort management. Be attentive to technical sections.
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Alpine variants: Don't hesitate to make a small round trip to Pointe de Talamarche (+ 2km and 220 D+ - 220 D-). It's a superb, slightly set-back summit that will offer you an incredible 360-degree view with Mont Blanc in sight.
For the more athletic and if conditions allow, adding the ascent of La Tournette is also feasible by climbing the classic trail from Chalet de l'Aulp then descending via the Col des Frêtes to reach Montmin (🚰 Fountain in front of the church) before climbing back up to the Col de la Forclaz (+8km and 1000D+ - 1000D-)
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Accommodation: If you wish to complete the tour in several stages, several accommodations are available on or near the route. A few addresses in order:
- VTF Les Alerions Holiday Village: 496 Rte de Bluffy, 74290 Talloires-Montmin: http://www.lesalerions.org/
- Gîte de Pontgibaud Restaurant: 255 Rte de Saury, 74210 Lathuile: http://www.gitedepontgibaud.com/
- La Biolette Nature Gîte: la Biolette, 74320 Leschaux: http://www.biolette.com/
Mountains can pose significant dangers for the uninitiated. Weather conditions can change rapidly, making trails impassable and certain areas potentially dangerous. To ensure a safe experience, it is essential to consult professionals, whether for advice on local conditions or for guidance during your outings. Their expertise is indispensable to minimize risks and fully enjoy the mountains with peace of mind.
Joris Tripier-Mondancin
Born in Voiron at the foot of the Chartreuse massif, I also spent 9 years in Paris as an artistic director in an advertising agency. I then left Montmartre hill to return to my native mountains. I am now settled in Annecy where I am a mountain guide. For 5 years, I have been creating and leading numerous trail running camps and trips for Trails in France, a travel agency specializing in trail running. I also lead some trekking trips in Vanoise and Dévoluy for the agency Chilowé. You can find my trip dates on my website marcheoutrail.fr (yes, I know the site is not at all up to date, but it's on my autumn/winter to-do list 🤞)